The Edinburgh hill where red squirrels outnumber tourists — and the views are spectacular

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Calton Hill has the crowds. Arthur’s Seat has the queues. But on the western edge of Edinburgh, a forested hill has been giving locals some of the finest views in the city for decades — with woodland trails, red squirrels, and almost nobody else around.

Corstorphine Hill is the Edinburgh walk that guidebooks forget to mention. And that’s exactly what makes it worth your time.

A city in miniature, seen from the treetops

Corstorphine Hill rises to just over 160 metres — modest by Scottish standards, but enough to give sweeping views across Edinburgh to the Firth of Forth and beyond. The summit sits only three miles from Princes Street, yet it feels a world apart from the tourist trail.

The hill is a Local Nature Reserve, crossed by footpaths through mature woodland. In spring, bluebells carpet the ground beneath the trees. In autumn, the leaves turn gold and amber and the whole hill glows. In winter, when frost settles over the city below, the woodland feels almost wild.

Most visitors to Edinburgh never set foot here. Most locals wish they’d keep it that way.

The tower nobody talks about

Near the summit, almost hidden by trees, stands one of Edinburgh’s more unusual landmarks: Corstorphine Hill Tower. Built in the 1870s, it’s a Victorian Gothic memorial — compact, a little mysterious, and easy to miss entirely.

When you find it — and you will, eventually — it feels like a genuine discovery. The tower is locked, but the clearing around it opens up to give the best views on the hill. To the north, the Firth of Forth stretches out, with the Kingdom of Fife beyond. On a clear day you can pick out both Forth Bridges — the Victorian rail bridge and the elegant new crossing that opened in 2017.

Turn south and you see the Pentland Hills. Turn east and the Edinburgh skyline — castle, spires, volcanic rock — unfolds like a scene from a historical drama.

Where red squirrels still run free

Native red squirrels still inhabit the woodland on Corstorphine Hill. This is one of the few places near Edinburgh’s city centre where you can spot them in the wild, darting between the oaks and beeches.

Edinburgh Zoo sits at the foot of the hill, but these squirrels don’t need an enclosure. Come before 9am on a weekday and you’ll have the paths almost entirely to yourself — just the squirrels, the birdsong, and the occasional dog walker who lives nearby.

Red squirrels are rare throughout most of Britain. Seeing one here, in a woodland three miles from the city centre, never quite loses its surprise.

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How to get there

The hill is most easily accessed from Clermiston Road North, where a gate leads directly into the nature reserve. You can also enter from the Zoo car park on Corstorphine Road — useful if you’re combining the walk with a zoo visit.

From the city centre, the number 26 bus reaches Edinburgh Zoo in around 20 minutes. There’s free street parking on Clermiston Road. The main circular trail takes about 45 minutes at an easy pace, though longer routes through the woodland can extend to 90 minutes or more.

Wear sturdy shoes — some paths are steep and can be muddy after rain. Dogs are welcome and will be extremely happy about it.

When to visit

Early morning and late afternoon are best, when the light falls through the trees and the city noise fades. Weekday mornings are the quietest. Weekends are busier — though by Edinburgh standards, it rarely gets crowded.

Autumn brings the most dramatic colours. Spring brings bluebells on the lower slopes. Winter, after a light frost, transforms the whole hill into something quite extraordinary — quiet, cold, and utterly beautiful.

If you enjoy hidden walks, the Water of Leith Walkway is another local favourite — a 12-mile riverside trail that winds through ancient woodland and the hidden village of Dean without ever leaving the city.

Frequently asked questions

Is Corstorphine Hill free to visit?

Yes. Corstorphine Hill is a public Local Nature Reserve and completely free to access at any time of day.

Are there really red squirrels on Corstorphine Hill?

Native red squirrels do live in the woodland on Corstorphine Hill, making it one of the few places close to Edinburgh’s city centre where you might spot them in the wild. Early mornings offer the best chance of a sighting.

How do I get to Corstorphine Hill from Edinburgh city centre?

The number 26 bus from the city centre stops at Edinburgh Zoo in around 20 minutes. The main entrance to the hill is a short walk along Corstorphine Road. You can also drive and park on Clermiston Road North, where there’s free street parking near the gate into the nature reserve.

How long is the Corstorphine Hill walk?

The main circular trail takes around 45 minutes at a relaxed pace. Longer routes through the woodland can extend to 90 minutes or more. Some sections are steep and can be muddy in wet weather, so sturdy footwear is recommended.

Edinburgh rewards those who look past the obvious. Corstorphine Hill has been sitting quietly on the western edge of the city all along, waiting for someone to notice. Once you’ve walked it — once you’ve seen the city laid out below you and a red squirrel darting between the oaks — you’ll understand why locals keep quiet about it.

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