The dark history of Edinburgh’s most-loved square — and the pub named after a hanging

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Stand in Edinburgh’s Grassmarket on any given evening and you’ll see laughing crowds spilling out of pubs, tourists photographing the castle overhead, and the smell of good food drifting from half-open kitchen doors. It feels like one of the most celebratory spots in the city. But look at the cobblestones beneath your feet. This square has a story that goes far darker than the fairy-lit menus suggest.

For three centuries, the Grassmarket was Edinburgh’s killing ground.

One of Edinburgh’s oldest open spaces

The Grassmarket has been a functioning market since 1477 — older than many of the stone buildings surrounding it. Situated in a natural valley just below the Old Town ridge, it made perfect sense as a trading hub. Horses, cattle, and grain changed hands here for generations. The shape you see today — that long, wide rectangle flanked by tall tenements — is essentially unchanged from the medieval period.

The castle sits directly above, watching over everything. That relationship between power and the streets below shaped what happened in the Grassmarket for hundreds of years.

The gallows that stood for three centuries

From the early 1600s until 1784, the Grassmarket was Edinburgh’s primary place of public execution. Over 100 people were hanged here — criminals, Covenanters, and those unfortunate enough to fall foul of whoever held power at the time.

The crowd would gather in the square below. Wealthy citizens paid for window seats in the surrounding tenements. The condemned made their final journey down the Royal Mile, through the Old Town, and into the Grassmarket.

One of the strangest stories from the gallows involves Maggie Dickson — a woman convicted of infanticide who was hanged in 1724. She survived. Whether through the rope slipping or some extraordinary act of biology, she regained consciousness in her coffin and went on to live for another 30 years. Edinburgh law at the time held that a punishment once carried out could not be repeated. Locals called her “Half Hangit Maggie,” and there’s a pub on the Grassmarket that bears her name to this day.

The Covenanters — martyrs on the cobblestones

The most significant executions in the Grassmarket were those of the Covenanters — Scottish Presbyterians who refused to accept the English Crown’s authority over the Scottish church. Around 100 of them were executed here during the late 17th century, a period historians call the Killing Time.

Their memorial in nearby Greyfriars Kirkyard — a short walk from the square — remains one of Edinburgh’s most visited and least-understood sites. Most visitors stop briefly, then move on to see Greyfriars Bobby nearby. The full weight of what happened in the Grassmarket rarely sinks in on a quick visit.

The pubs that wear their history on their sleeves

No pub name in Edinburgh is better chosen than The Last Drop. It sits directly where the gallows once stood, and the name refers to the last drop of the trapdoor — the moment of execution. Inside, the ceilings are low, the atmosphere is warm, and the pints are generous. It draws a mix of locals, backpackers, and curious visitors who’ve read the small print of the Grassmarket’s history.

Nearby, Maggie Dickson’s commemorates the woman who survived her own hanging. There can’t be many pubs in Scotland named after someone who walked away from the gallows. For a wider guide to where Edinburgh locals actually choose to drink, our list of Edinburgh pubs worth knowing about is a solid starting point.

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Victoria Street — the perfect frame above

Rising directly above the Grassmarket, Victoria Street sweeps in a long, photogenic curve. Built in the 1830s to improve access between the Grassmarket and George IV Bridge above, it’s now one of the most photographed streets in the city — and widely credited as an inspiration for Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter books.

Walking up Victoria Street from the Grassmarket gives you a completely different view of the square. On the way, you’ll pass independent shops selling antique maps, vintage clothing, and handmade gifts. It’s one of those Edinburgh walks that makes the city feel layered in a way no guidebook quite captures.

The Grassmarket today

The square has transformed dramatically since the last public execution. Today it hosts a weekly market, several of Edinburgh’s most popular pubs, independent restaurants, and boutique shops. On a warm summer evening, it’s one of the most pleasant places in the city to sit outside with a drink.

The Edinburgh Festival Fringe brings street performers to the square each August. During Hogmanay, the Grassmarket fills with crowds gathering under the castle. Whatever time of year you visit, there’s something happening here.

Frequently asked questions

What is the Edinburgh Grassmarket known for?

The Grassmarket is known for its dramatic history as Edinburgh’s main place of public execution from the 1600s until 1784. Today it’s equally famous for its lively bars and restaurants, its stunning views of Edinburgh Castle, and its proximity to Victoria Street — one of the city’s most photogenic spots.

Is the Grassmarket worth visiting in Edinburgh?

Absolutely. The Grassmarket combines genuine historical weight with a thriving modern atmosphere. It’s free to visit, central to the Old Town, and makes a natural base for exploring nearby attractions including Greyfriars Kirkyard, Victoria Street, Edinburgh Castle, and the Royal Mile.

What are the best pubs in the Edinburgh Grassmarket?

The Last Drop is the most historically interesting — it sits directly where the gallows stood and is named after the execution itself. Maggie Dickson’s is another must-visit for its extraordinary namesake story. Both are lively, welcoming, and serve decent pub food alongside a solid range of Scottish ales.

The Grassmarket is one of those places where Edinburgh’s weight of history and love of life exist in the same square metre. You can order a craft beer in the exact spot where someone was hanged for their beliefs 350 years ago. That’s not morbid — it’s just Edinburgh, being exactly itself.

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