The Edinburgh palace most visitors save for ‘next time’ — and why it keeps winning them over

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Every year, millions of visitors walk the Royal Mile from one end to the other. Most start at Edinburgh Castle, work their way downhill through the closes and cafés, and somewhere around the Canongate they check the time. The Palace of Holyroodhouse is still ahead. The plan becomes: maybe next trip.

It’s the single biggest mistake you can make in Edinburgh.

The palace that kings and queens actually used

Edinburgh Castle is magnificent, but it’s primarily a fortress. Holyrood is the real deal — a working royal palace, the official Scottish residence of the King, used for state ceremonies and garden parties to this day. James IV of Scotland first built a guesthouse beside the medieval abbey here in 1501. What you see now is largely the work of Charles II, who rebuilt it spectacularly in the 1670s.

It’s still a functioning palace. During Royal Week in late June, no public visitors are allowed — the King is in residence. That alone tells you something about how seriously it’s still taken.

The rooms where Mary Queen of Scots actually lived

The oldest surviving part of the palace is the northwest tower, built in the 1520s. This is where Mary Queen of Scots lived and ruled from 1561 to 1567, and the rooms are preserved with extraordinary care.

You can walk through her Outer Chamber, her Bedchamber, and the tiny supper room where one of Scottish history’s most violent nights unfolded. The audio guide brings every room to life. Mary becomes real here in a way she doesn’t in a history book — young, politically isolated, trying to hold together a kingdom that was pulling apart around her.

The night David Rizzio was murdered

On 9 March 1566, Mary’s husband Lord Darnley and a group of armed conspirators burst into the palace and dragged her Italian secretary David Rizzio from her side. He was stabbed 56 times. The exact spot where he fell is still marked on the floor.

Rizzio was rumoured to be Mary’s closest confidant, though historians debate the full nature of their relationship. What’s clear is that the murder was a political act — Darnley wanted to destroy Mary’s most trusted adviser. It backfired catastrophically. Mary was pregnant with the future James VI at the time.

Standing in that small room, it’s impossible not to feel the weight of it. This is exactly the kind of history Edinburgh does better than anywhere else in Britain.

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The ruined Abbey that predates the palace by 400 years

Few visitors expect what’s just beyond the palace gates: the roofless nave of the Abbey of Holyrood, founded in 1128 by King David I. The roof collapsed in 1768 and was never repaired. What remains is one of Scotland’s most atmospheric medieval ruins — open sky above, carved stone arches still standing, royal tombs still in the floor.

James II, James V and Lord Darnley are all buried here. Admission to the palace includes the Abbey. Don’t rush past it — many visitors say it’s the part they remember longest.

The park and ruins that surround everything

Immediately behind the palace, Holyrood Park opens up into something that feels entirely unlike a city park. This is 260 hectares of volcanic landscape — Arthur’s Seat, Salisbury Crags, Dunsapie Loch, and the ruins of St Anthony’s Chapel perched on a crag above the water.

The Chapel ruins date from the 14th or 15th century and their purpose is still debated. Was it a beacon for sailors on the Firth of Forth? A chapel for pilgrims? Nobody knows for certain. That’s half the appeal of spending time in this part of Edinburgh — mystery runs through it like a seam.

What to know before you visit

Tickets: Standard adult admission is around £17.50. Book online in advance, especially in summer — queues at the door can be long in August.

Opening hours: Generally 9:30am–4:30pm in winter, with extended hours in summer. The palace closes during Royal Week in late June or early July.

Time needed: Allow at least 90 minutes for the palace and Abbey. Add an hour if you want to explore Holyrood Park.

Getting there: The palace sits at the foot of the Royal Mile. Walk from Waverley Station in about 15 minutes, or take Lothian Bus route 35 from the city centre.

If you’ve already explored the hidden street buried beneath the Royal Mile, Holyrood Palace is the ideal second act — two completely different ways of understanding the same city and the same era of history.

Frequently asked questions

Is Holyrood Palace worth visiting in Edinburgh?

Yes — and many visitors say they wished they’d come here before Edinburgh Castle. It’s one of the most historically significant buildings in Scotland, with preserved royal apartments that actually feel lived-in rather than roped off. The Abbey ruins alone justify the entrance fee.

When is Holyrood Palace open to the public?

The palace is open most of the year, roughly 9:30am–4:30pm in winter and later in summer. It closes during Royal Week in late June or early July when the King is in residence. Check the Royal Collection Trust website for exact dates before you travel.

How long does a visit to Holyrood Palace take?

Allow at least 90 minutes to explore the palace and Abbey properly with the audio guide. If you plan to walk in Holyrood Park or visit St Anthony’s Chapel ruins, add another hour or two. Half a day is ideal if you want to take it at a comfortable pace.

Most people who finally make it to Holyrood say the same thing: I wish I’d come here first. The castle is impressive. The palace is unforgettable. The two are 15 minutes apart — and they’re on the same street.

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