Most visitors walk straight past it. They follow the Royal Mile from the castle to Holyrood and never think to turn left. That is their loss. The Grassmarket is one of Edinburgh’s most rewarding squares — and it rewards every person who stops long enough to look up.
A market square with seven centuries of history
The Grassmarket has been a trading place since 1477. Cattle, horses, and grain changed hands here for centuries. The square sits in a natural hollow beneath Castle Rock, sheltered from the wind that whips across the Old Town. You can still feel that sense of enclosure when you walk in.
The long rectangular shape, the towering castle cliff above, the old tenement buildings pressing in on three sides — the bones of the place remain unchanged. Traders gave way to restaurants, bars, and boutique hotels. But the atmosphere persists.
Public executions and the last drop
The Grassmarket hosted public executions from the 16th century until 1784. Over a hundred people were hanged in this square. A small stone monument marks the spot of the old gallows.
The Covenanters — Scottish Presbyterians who refused to accept the king as head of the church — died here in the 17th century. Their courage is remembered in a plaque near the market cross. The pub that stands closest to the monument is called The Last Drop. It takes its name from those grim proceedings. Today it is one of Edinburgh’s most popular bars.
Love Edinburgh? 43,000 Scotland lovers get stories like this every week. Subscribe free →
Victoria Street: Edinburgh’s most beautiful shopping lane
Leading off the Grassmarket is Victoria Street. It curves uphill in a graceful arc, lined with brightly coloured shopfronts — violet, green, gold, and red. Wool merchants, cheese specialists, and independent retailers occupy the old stone buildings.
J.K. Rowling is said to have drawn on Victoria Street when she imagined Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter books. Whether the connection is real or invented, the street has a theatrical quality that is easy to see. It belongs inside a story.
The Vennel: the best free view in Edinburgh
Walk to the far end of the Grassmarket and look for a narrow stair climbing the castle rock. This is The Vennel. It takes three minutes to climb. At the top, the view opens up: Edinburgh Castle filling the sky, the old Flodden Wall stretching below, the rooftops of the Old Town spread out behind.
Almost nobody is ever there. Remember that when you visit — and allow time to stop at the top.
Greyfriars Bobby and the kirkyard five minutes away
Head up Candlemaker Row from the Grassmarket and you reach Greyfriars Kirkyard in five minutes. Here lies the grave of John Gray, a police night-watchman who died in 1858. His Skye terrier, Bobby, guarded the grave for fourteen years until his own death in 1872.
A small bronze statue of Bobby stands at the kirkyard entrance on Candlemaker Row. He is one of Edinburgh’s most beloved figures. Visitors come from across the world to see him — and if you want to explore the darker stories lurking beneath Edinburgh’s streets, ghost tours begin nearby every evening.
Where to eat and drink in the Grassmarket today
The Grassmarket has more pubs per square metre than almost anywhere else in Edinburgh. The Last Drop is the most famous. The White Hart Inn is the oldest, dating to 1516 — Robert Burns and William Wordsworth are both said to have drunk here.
For food, Mimi’s Bakehouse serves an excellent brunch, popular with locals and visitors alike. The Grain Store on Victoria Street offers a serious Scottish menu in a beautiful converted warehouse. For whisky, Maggie Dickson’s has a fine selection and an atmosphere that stays with you.
If you want to understand the true character of Edinburgh’s Old Town, the Grassmarket is the place to sit with a drink and let the city come to you.
What is the Grassmarket in Edinburgh famous for?
The Grassmarket is famous for its history as a trading market dating back to 1477, and for its role as Edinburgh’s public execution site until 1784. Today it is known for its lively pubs, independent shops, and proximity to Victoria Street and Greyfriars Kirkyard.
Is the Grassmarket worth visiting in Edinburgh?
Yes. The Grassmarket is free to visit, rich in history, and surrounded by some of Edinburgh’s best pubs, cafes, and independent shops. Victoria Street leads directly off the square. The Vennel steps nearby offer one of the finest free views of Edinburgh Castle in the city.
How do you get to the Grassmarket from the Royal Mile?
From the Royal Mile, walk down Candlemaker Row or Victoria Street — either route takes around five minutes on foot. Alternatively, descend The Vennel steps from Johnston Terrace and you arrive at the castle end of the square.
Join 43,000+ Scotland Lovers
Every week, get Scotland’s hidden gems, local secrets, and travel inspiration — the kind you won’t find in any guidebook.
Love more? Join 64,000 Ireland lovers → · Join 30,000 Italy lovers →
Free forever · One email per week · Unsubscribe anytime
The Grassmarket does not need to try hard. It has seven centuries of stories baked into its walls. Come for a drink, stay for the history, and leave by The Vennel at dusk — with the castle towering above you and the city spread out below.
Secure Your Dream Scottish Experience Before It’s Gone!
Planning a trip to Scotland? Don’t let sold-out tours or packed attractions dampen your adventure. Iconic experiences like exploring Edinburgh Castle, cruising along Loch Ness, or wandering through the mystical Isle of Skye often fill up fast—especially during peak travel seasons
Booking in advance guarantees your place and ensures you can fully immerse yourself in the rich culture and breathtaking scenery without stress or disappointment. You’ll also free up time to explore Scotland's hidden gems and savour those authentic moments that make your trip truly special.
Make the most of your journey—start planning today and secure those must-do experiences before they’re gone!