The hills on Edinburgh’s doorstep where locals go to escape — and tourists rarely follow

Sharing is caring!

Ten minutes from Edinburgh’s city centre, the Pentland Hills rise above the rooftops. Locals head there every weekend. Most tourists never know they exist.

That’s your advantage.

What are the Pentland Hills?

The Pentland Hills Regional Park stretches 16 miles southwest of Edinburgh. It covers around 100 square kilometres of moorland, grassy ridges, and dark Victorian reservoirs. The highest point, Scald Law, reaches 579 metres.

From the top on a clear day, you can see across the Firth of Forth into Fife, and on the best days, Ben Lomond appears on the horizon. The views rival anything Edinburgh’s city hills can offer — and you’ll share them with far fewer people.

For context: Arthur’s Seat draws thousands of visitors on a summer morning. The Pentlands might see a couple of dozen walkers on the same day. The hills are right there, and yet they stay quiet.

Getting there

The easiest entry point is Flotterstone Visitor Centre on the A702, about 30 minutes from the city centre by bus. There’s a car park on-site and an information board with route maps.

Bonaly Country Park is another popular starting point, reachable by Lothian Bus from Colinton. It’s well-suited to shorter loops and is especially good if you have children in tow.

At the northern end, Hillend Snowsports Centre has a chairlift that carries you partway up the hill. It’s entirely optional — and entirely Edinburgh.

Three walks worth knowing

The Pentlands suit every level of walker.

Easy (2.5 miles): The Bonaly loop stays low and gentle. Good for families, and the views still impress.

Moderate (5 miles): The Flotterstone to Glencorse Reservoir loop is the local favourite. The reservoir sits in a dramatic fold of hills — a Victorian engineering feat hidden in plain sight. The path is clear and well-maintained throughout.

Challenging (8 miles): The Scald Law ridge takes in the three main summits of the park. Allow four hours and bring a proper waterproof — the ridge catches the weather before the city does.

Love Edinburgh? 43,000 Scotland lovers get stories like this every week. Subscribe free →

What you’ll see

In spring, curlews call across the moorland and the reservoirs are full to the brim. In summer, red grouse burst from the heather at your feet. In autumn, the hillsides turn amber and rust — it’s genuinely beautiful and rarely photographed.

The reservoirs were built in the 1820s to supply Edinburgh with clean drinking water. They still work today. Walking along their banks, it’s hard to believe you’re ten minutes from a capital city.

The hills carry quiet history too. Soldiers trained here during both World Wars. The landscape looks timeless — but it has seen a great deal.

What to bring

Scotland’s weather moves fast. Even on a sunny Edinburgh morning, the hills can be cold and wet by noon. Always bring a waterproof jacket. On the moderate and challenging routes, wear proper walking boots — the paths get boggy after rain.

Take food and water. There are no cafés on the hills. Phone signal disappears quickly once you’re on the ridge, so download your route before you leave. The Pentland Hills Regional Park website has free route maps.

When you’re done, the Water of Leith makes a perfect low-key recovery walk — flat, green, and right through the city.

Is there parking at the Pentland Hills?

Yes. Flotterstone Visitor Centre and Bonaly Country Park both have free car parks. Hillend has parking with a small charge. Arrive early on sunny weekends — the spots fill up by mid-morning.

Are the Pentland Hills suitable for beginners?

Absolutely. The Bonaly loop is short, flat, and well-marked — ideal for first-time walkers or families with young children. The Flotterstone routes are clearly signposted too. Only the Scald Law ridge needs proper hill-walking experience.

Can you reach the Pentland Hills without a car?

Yes. Lothian Buses run services along the A702 to Flotterstone, and regular buses serve Colinton village for Bonaly. Check the Lothian Buses journey planner before you go — routes and times change seasonally. The journey from the city centre takes around 30 minutes.

Most Edinburgh visitors leave without ever knowing the Pentlands exist. That’s a shame — and it’s also exactly what makes them worth going to.

Sharing is caring!