Edinburgh has wild hills on its doorstep — and most visitors never know

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Pull up almost any list of things to do in Edinburgh and you’ll find the castle, the Royal Mile, and Arthur’s Seat. What those lists almost never mention is this: seven miles south of the city, a range of ancient wild hills stretches across the horizon — and on any given weekend, half of Edinburgh is up there walking.

The Pentland Hills Regional Park covers more than 100 square kilometres of moorland, lochs, and high ridgelines. Most visitors never set foot there. Locals wouldn’t have it any other way.

What exactly are the Pentland Hills?

The Pentlands — as Edinburgh residents call them — are a low but dramatic range running south-west from the city’s edge, rising to 579 metres at Scald Law, their highest peak. Designated a regional park in 1986, they protect a landscape that has been farmed, grazed, and walked for centuries.

These aren’t wilderness hills in the Highland sense. There are no fierce summits or technical scrambles. What they offer is something more quietly satisfying: open ridgelines, sweeping views, and the almost surreal sensation of standing in total silence with the Edinburgh skyline glittering on the horizon behind you.

How close to Edinburgh are they?

This is where visitors do a double-take. The Pentland Hills Regional Park boundary begins just seven miles from Edinburgh city centre. The main entry point at Flotterstone is reachable by Lothian Buses route 101 from St Andrew Square in under 40 minutes, or about 25 minutes by car along the A702.

On a clear day — and Scotland does have those — you can stand on the ridge at Carnethy Hill and see the Forth Bridges, Edinburgh Castle, and on the very best days, the distant peaks of the Highlands dissolving into the north. By any measure, this is one of the most spectacular city edges in Britain.

The best walks to try first

Flotterstone to Carnethy Hill is the classic. From the visitor centre, follow the Glencorse Burn upstream before climbing steeply to the main ridge. The round trip is around 9km with about 400 metres of ascent — allow two to three hours, and bring a waterproof even in summer.

The Allermuir loop from Hillend is gentler and brilliant for families or first-timers. Starting from the Hillend Ski Centre — served directly by Lothian Buses 4 and 44 — a path climbs through open moorland to the Allermuir summit. The ridge views over Edinburgh on the way up are worth the effort alone.

Balerno via the Water of Leith is the ambitious option. The Water of Leith begins its journey in the Pentland foothills, and walking downstream from Balerno through Currie and into Dean Village makes for a full-day Edinburgh route that almost no visitor ever attempts.

What you’ll actually find up there

Skylarks. In spring and summer their song cascades down from birds impossibly high above the heather — a sound Edinburgh city-dwellers come here specifically to hear. There are also mountain hares (white in winter, brown the rest of the year), red kites, and on the southern slopes, small herds of cattle that regard walkers with polite indifference.

Three reservoirs sit tucked among the hills — Glencorse, Threipmuir, and Harlaw — supplying part of Edinburgh’s drinking water. The landscape around them feels entirely untouched: dark water ringed by birch and heather, perfectly still on calm days, deeply atmospheric in mist. Even the short walk from Flotterstone to Glencorse Reservoir is worth the trip on its own.

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Practical tips before you go

Trainers will manage on dry days on the lower reservoir paths, but the ridge can be boggy in any season. Proper walking boots make a real difference on the higher routes. Ordnance Survey Explorer map 344 covers the full park and is worth downloading to your phone before you set off.

The Flotterstone Visitor Centre has toilets, a small car park, and a seasonal café. For more of Edinburgh’s remarkable walks close to the city centre, the hills are just the beginning. Scotland’s walking country stretches far beyond the Highlands — and a lot of it starts on Edinburgh’s doorstep.

Frequently asked questions

How do I get to the Pentland Hills from Edinburgh?

The most popular access point, Flotterstone, is about 10 miles south on the A702. Lothian Buses route 101 from St Andrew Square runs roughly hourly with a journey time of around 40 minutes. The northern end of the park at Hillend is served by routes 4 and 44 from the city centre, taking about 30 minutes.

How difficult are the Pentland Hills walks?

The Pentlands offer walks for all abilities. Flat paths around Glencorse and Harlaw reservoirs are easy and suitable for families with young children. Ridgeline routes involve 300–500 metres of ascent and require reasonable fitness and sturdy footwear. The highest point, Scald Law, is a moderate climb with a clear path from Glencorse.

Are dogs welcome in the Pentland Hills?

Yes. Dogs are welcome throughout the Pentland Hills Regional Park on open access land. Keep them on leads near livestock — the hills are working farmland in parts. Some areas close to the reservoirs have seasonal restrictions during nesting periods, with signs guiding visitors clearly.

Is there parking at the Pentland Hills?

Yes. Flotterstone has a car park (charges apply), with smaller car parks at Harlaw, Threipmuir, and Hillend. Arrive early at weekends in summer — the Pentlands are genuinely popular with Edinburgh locals and parking fills quickly on fine days.

Most visitors to Edinburgh are so absorbed by the city’s extraordinary history and spectacle that they never lift their gaze to the horizon. But Edinburghers know: the hills are as much a part of this city as the castle. Go once, on a clear morning when the skyline floats behind you and the skylarks are singing, and you’ll understand exactly why the locals keep coming back.

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