The royal palace at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile — and what most visitors miss

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Most visitors walk straight past Holyrood Palace. They spend three hours on the Royal Mile, pop into a pub near the castle, and never quite make it down to the far end. Which means they never see Edinburgh’s most quietly dramatic corner — a living royal palace at the foot of an ancient volcano, surrounded by medieval ruins and wild volcanic hills.

Scotland’s oldest working royal palace

Holyrood Palace has been a royal residence since the sixteenth century. It started as a guest house for Holyrood Abbey — the ruins of which still stand alongside the palace — and grew into one of the most significant royal buildings in Scotland.

Today it is the official Scottish residence of the monarch. State banquets are held here. Investitures take place in the garden. The King stays during Royal Week each summer. This is not a preserved relic — it is a palace that still works.

The rooms that Mary Queen of Scots walked through

The most celebrated rooms in Holyrood are those associated with Mary Queen of Scots, who lived here in the 1560s. Her private apartments — including a tiny supper room — are among the best-preserved sixteenth-century interiors in Scotland.

It was in these rooms that one of Scottish history’s most dramatic events took place. Mary’s secretary, David Rizzio, was dragged from her private chambers and stabbed 56 times on the staircase outside. A brass plate still marks the spot. Whether the stain on the floorboards is actually Rizzio’s blood is something guides are careful about — but the story loses nothing in the telling.

The state apartments are equally impressive: ceiling-high tapestries, the Great Gallery hung with portraits of 111 Scottish monarchs (some invented by the artist to fill the commission), and rooms that feel both formal and strangely intimate.

The ruined abbey sitting right beside it

Few visitors expect to find a roofless medieval abbey sitting directly beside the palace. Holyrood Abbey dates from 1128, when David I of Scotland founded it. Over the centuries it served as a royal chapel and burial place for Scottish kings before its roof collapsed in 1768.

What remains is genuinely haunting: soaring Gothic stonework open to the Edinburgh sky, carved stone columns, and an atmosphere that no restoration could manufacture. Entry is included with a palace ticket.

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The volcanic park on the palace doorstep

Step outside the palace gates and you are immediately in Holyrood Park — 640 acres of volcanic landscape in the middle of a capital city. The geology here is startling. Arthur’s Seat, the park’s dominant hill, is the eroded remnant of a volcano that erupted around 350 million years ago.

The park also contains the Salisbury Crags — dramatic basalt cliffs that geologist James Hutton studied in the eighteenth century, helping establish the foundations of modern geology. The Radical Road path below the crags takes about 20 minutes to walk and offers views across the city. It costs nothing. If you want the full climb, our guide to Arthur’s Seat covers every route and what to expect.

Halfway up the slopes sits St Anthony’s Chapel — a ruined fifteenth-century chapel perched on a ridge above the park. Most visitors never find it. The views from there, down over the palace and across the Firth of Forth, are among the finest in Edinburgh.

Practical things worth knowing before you go

Holyrood Palace closes to visitors during Royal Week, when the King is in residence — usually late June or early July. Check Historic Environment Scotland’s website before planning your visit. The palace gardens also open for a few weeks in summer and are worth timing your trip around.

For another royal Edinburgh experience, the Royal Yacht Britannia is docked at Leith, about 20 minutes by tram from Holyrood. The two visits pair well together for a day focused on Scotland’s royal connections.

Scotland’s rich heritage extends far beyond Edinburgh, too. Love to Visit Scotland has guides to castles, lochs, and landscapes across the whole country.

Frequently asked questions

Is Holyrood Palace worth visiting in Edinburgh?

Yes — particularly if you have any interest in Scottish royal history. The Mary Queen of Scots apartments, the ruined abbey, and the adjacent volcanic park make Holyrood one of the most varied and atmospheric royal attractions in Britain.

How long does Holyrood Palace take to visit?

Allow two to two-and-a-half hours for the palace and abbey. Add another hour or two if you plan to walk in Holyrood Park, follow the Radical Road path, or climb to St Anthony’s Chapel.

When is Holyrood Palace closed to visitors?

The palace closes when the King is in residence during Royal Week, which typically falls in late June or early July. Dates vary by year, so always check the Historic Environment Scotland website before visiting.

Is Holyrood Park free to enter?

Yes. Holyrood Park is free and open every day. The Salisbury Crags walk, the path to St Anthony’s Chapel, and the approach to Arthur’s Seat are all freely accessible. You only pay to enter the palace and abbey themselves.

Edinburgh is full of places that reveal themselves slowly. Holyrood is one of them — a corner of the city where a royal palace, a medieval ruin, and a prehistoric volcano somehow share the same few acres. If you make it to the far end of the Royal Mile, stay a while.

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